One of the most influential women in the world of fine jewelry, Suzanne Belperron has long been considered one of the greatest designers of the 20th Century. She began designing jewelry at the famed Maison Boivin firm in 1923, working in partnership with another prodigious female, Jeanne Boivin.
In 1933, Belperron left Boivin to enter a partnership with a pearl dealer, Bernard Herz. Herz offered her complete creative and artistic control of her designs and the partnership flourished in the pre-WWII years, until Herz was interned and later killed in a concentration camp. His son took over the Herz end of the partnership and the brand remained intact until 1974, when Belperron retired.
Belperron is famed for her unique aesthetic and ability to skillfully manipulate materials. She used large stones, particularly the blue-toned sapphires and chalcedony, in three-dimensional designs. Her genius was in the meshing of naturalistic design elements with semi-precious materials which illuminated the precious diamonds and gemstones of her fine jewelry pieces.
Her style was not limited to the sensuality of voluptuously curved floral and foliate designs, she was also a leading luminary in the world of avant-garde jewelry design. Strong, architectural motifs with linear qualities crafted in semi-precious materials were a reflection of her distinctive personality. Belperron’s fine jewelry creations are as unique and unforgettable as the woman herself was.
Despite having achieved popularity with her elite clientele, including the world-famous Duchess of Windsor, Belperron was not prolific in producing her elegant items. Collectors of fine estate jewelry have become avid in the acquisition of her pieces as they are incredibly rare to find. Indeed, Belperron’s jewelry stands as testament to the unique design aesthetics of the early and mid-20th Century, and the ability of one highly talented woman to buck convention and create divine pieces of jewelry which are as phenomenal today as they were when created.